|
Kenyans: It’s time to wake and smell the coffee. It’s foul!
By MUNGAI KIHANYA
The Sunday Nation
Nairobi,
15 February 2026
When listed
agricultural company, Sasini PLC announced in its annual report that it
was selling one of its coffee plantation in Kiambu county, the
discussion about the profitability of coffee farming was rekindled. Ten
years ago (2015), Sasini sold another parcel of land in Nyeri that was
also under coffee.
The truth of the
matter is that coffee farming has not a very profitable activity for
many decades – since the 1970s. In 2018, I touched on the case of Sasini
coffee farming. At the time they had made about Sh42 million profit from
about 2,000 acres of coffee which worked down to about Sh21,000 per acre
for a whole year!
These numbers haven’t
changed much since then and so, I am not surprised that the company is
selling off it’s coffee plantations. The alternative would be to uproot
coffee and grow other crops. That’s what Kakuzi PLC did several decades
ago.
Coffee farming makes
good fodder for political speeches. Politicians are always telling
farmers that there are faceless cartels eating their money and that’s
why incomes are so low. I have heard some claiming that other countries
are making a lot of money but not Kenya.
So, I looked for the
data and found the following. In 2025, Brazil, the world’s largest
producer, sold 2.4 billion kilograms of coffee in the world markets and
raised $15.6 billion dollars. That’s a lot of money but for a fair
comparison, we need to work out the unit price. It comes to about $6.5
per kilogram.
Closer home, Uganda
exported 522 million kilograms in 2025 and raised $2.5B. That is,
$4.8/kg. Ethiopia, the historical origin of coffee, exported 469 million
kg from which they got $2.65B; that is, $5.65/kg.
What about Kenya?
Contrary to popular belief, we are a very small player in coffee
production. In 2025 we sold a measly 45 million kg (less than a tenth of
Uganda and Ethiopia!) which raised a correspondingly small amount of
money - $336 million. However, when we work out our unit price, it comes
to $7.5/kg. This is higher than what all the major players are getting
for their coffee.
So, we must then ask
this question: where is the problem? My suspicion is that there is
over-production which has depressed world prices as producers compete
against one another for the few buyers available. That’s not a cartel;
it’s how markets behave naturally. Is the solution then to scale down
production? Well, that’s what many (Sasini, Eagaads, Kakuzi etc) have
done.
|